After a long bus ride from Kunming, we arrived in the city of Xiaguan, the “New Dali.” We had been advised by guidebooks and other travelers to just hop on a bus and bust outta there, straight to the old town. We took a taxi instead for around the same price as 3 people on the bus. Following a LP recommendation, we stayed in a new hotel called The Jade Emu just outside the old city walls. The Father really blessed us with friendly staff (“Oh, just check in when you’re ready!”) and a clean room (with electric blankets!) and beautiful surroundings (Cang Shan rising up behind us!).
After settling in (and playing darts on their dartboard) we set out to explore the old city. We were surprised to see medieval-like castle walls (like the ones the French have in the Holy Grail) with huge pagoda-ed gates at the N, S, E, and W walls. Those two (pagodas and medieval castles) still don’t seem to mix well in my mind, but Dali made it work. LP had warned that Dali was very touristy, but we walked in a lesser gate and there was no one in sight! Just a little brook running through a cobblestone lane. We followed the water and found more of the heart of town where we ate a Chinese/Mexican/American dinner of cashew chicken (Chinese), tacos (Mexican), and lasagna (American). Sounds strange, I know, but it was delicious. Apple pie for dessert if I remember right… (It was at this restaurant we saw the two Germans who had been at our hotel in Kunming AND on our bus to Dali. No, they aren’t stalking us, we all just have LP!)
The next morning was Sunday, so we drank tea and held a devo of sorts in our room. We moseyed around the town for a bit, looking at things, taking pictures, getting Dad some fried milky thing on a stick that left a sour taste in your mouth, watching native ladies dance, trying to get a bus to the lake, buying Mom new sunglasses because hers fell in the squatty potty in Kunming… those kind of things. Then we paid maybe 5Y each to walk along the top of the city walls (now we really felt like the French guys… or the French peas on the wall in Veggie Tales… something about French and walls). Walking here gave us awesome views of the famous Er Hai lake, Cang Shan mountain, San Ta (the three pagodas north of town), and the small old town itself. Up on top of the wall were at least 7 bride and groom pairs dressed to the 9s taking wedding pictures (I guess it costs less in a group). After forgetting the way down and walking a long way back we finally reached the ground where we caught a bus to Xizhou, a small town on the lake. The bus was crowded with native Bai women and took us about 20 minutes north past green crops and farms. Xizhou was about like you’d expect a small town to be, so we made it our priority to find the lake. We walked through the streets till about the edge of town and no lake. A little farther we asked directions to Er Hai from an old lady who pointed us onwards. So, to my dismay, we walk on. And, no lake. So we send Dad ahead, and he still cant find anything like water. After we exhaust all the possible ways we turn around and it’s back to Dali. The bus puts us out in a place we’ve never been before, so we have to find the way back. We see local women sitting on chairs and stools in the stream washing their vegetables. We find food at a mom-and-pop-with-a-dog place and conclude our Sunday. Monday morning we pull on our hiking boots, because we got a tour deal from our hotel to get a bus to Cang Shan, cable car up, entrance fee, and cable car down all together for a good price. So we hop in the car with 3 other Jade Emu-ers. 2 guys from South Carolina and a gal from England. All English teachers in China. When we get up from the cable car, we are greeted by a would-be waterfall, but it’s dried up. So much for coming in off-season… We follow a lovely 11 km (7 mile) path, which for once in China is not stairs, but a nice, flat, stone walkway around the mountain ridge. The Father blessed us yet again with sunny and warm weather! The beautiful scenery shows us only a slice of His beauty and power. We walked with the British girl, Sara, which was nice because she is a veteran teacher and gave us many tips about our next destinations. About halfway along, we met a Chinese woman with her mother and father who were also visiting Dali. She spoke excellent English, but her parents- not a word! Sara spoke enough Chinese to carry on a conversation with them and interpret for us. Even though we couldn’t speak well, they shared their raw white carrots with us. The daughter was a teacher in the Northeast of China, and a law and economics major, so she had some interesting discussions with my mom about American laws! It was a relaxing walk, and good for all of us to talk to other people besides each other! Once back in the city we went to the local market (just to look around- mom is not yet up to buying a whole live chicken to cook for dinner!), and then on to the lake (this was the real way, not another goose chase). The market was interesting and the lake was beautiful. Then (no, the day is not over yet) we went to the 3 pagodas that everyone says are a must-see, but the entrance fee is outrageous! But, it turns out its closed anyways, so we went into the parking lot and took not-so-great pictures from there. A man inside the gate offered to take pictures with our camera from where he was which was really nice and got us great pictures! Woohoo!
Our last day in Dali was actually only a morning and we spent it walking around town buying last minute doohas and visiting our favorite and most frequented place in the town. The Sweet Tooth! It’s a bakery recommended by LP with scrumptious desserts (or breakfasts…), AND it benefits local deaf community! That’s like everything you could want rolled into one place right there! We stopped by once a day at least. Oreo cheesecake, blackberry muffins (hot), chocolate-and-cheese muffins, mmmmm… But, we had to catch our bus to Lijiang so we took it to go! Dali was surprisingly calm and relaxing, not so many tourists, and stunningly beautiful! Zaijian Dali!
~ Tanner
