Beijing Landmarks
Beijing is a grand capital city! The expansive formal public places formed of wide-open spaces and traditional Chinese architecture are quite moving. Perhaps most familiar is Tian’anmen Square, reportedly the largest public open space in the world. The magnificent rostrum (podium) and permanent parade viewing stands make for a striking governmental statement – even without a presidential motorcade, parade or student demonstration. Perhaps it is the giant image of Chairman Mao presiding high above the plaza that infuses the spirit of this place. Surprisingly the square is noticeably absent of significant trees or planting. Although certainly grand, for me it doesn’t measure up to the National Mall in Washington D.C. which presents a much stronger quality of space defined by buildings, monuments and landscaping.
On the north side of Tian’anmen Square, behind the rostrum, is the Forbidden City – another national treasure. This extensive complex is the former imperial home and grounds consisting of numerous plazas, courtyards, the palace and garden (park). The primary interest for me was the sheer magnitude of the place! It would take days to see everything – but who would want to! Disappointing was the condition of the exhibits – austere, primitive and poorly displayed. However, the arrangement of the buildings and surrounding spaces with strong axial layout did give a strong sense of the rigid, formal plan – perhaps properly illustrating the imperial rule. Tanner and I soon tired of this and preferred exploring the large garden – a respite for the ruling family including rock grottoes and ancient twisted trees.
Perhaps the highlight among the city landmarks was the Temple of Heaven complex. Although less well known to foreigners, this park presents a beautiful setting for the imperial ceremonial place of worship. We enjoyed discovering the juxtaposition of the layout of rectilinear forms (representing Earth) with round shapes (representing heaven), always arranged on a clear linear axis. The TianTan (w_rship building) and nearby Round Altar (sacrificial stone) were especially interesting and in much better condition than much of the Forbidden City.
We also enjoyed the Summer Palace, a park and residential retreat for the imperial family. However, our family’s absolute favorite excursion was our day on the Great Wall of China, but that deserves another post!
We enjoyed a week of (relatively) warm temperatures and no snow or ice on the ground – uncharacteristic for February for this northern city. However, Beijing’s lakes and rivers where frozen over and the trees and flowers were missing their color, which certainly influenced our appreciation – perhaps we’ll be able to return sometime…
~ Jeff
